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Giada De Laurentiis' new restaurant in Horseshoe Casino Baltimore serves up appealing flavors

Her first restaurant opened four years ago in a hotel on the Las Vegas strip; another followed in that gambling mecca this year. And now, nestled away from slot machines and poker tables at Horseshoe Casino Baltimore, we have GDL Italian by Giada — not the most mellifluously named restaurant, perhaps, but a welcome addition to the scene. Once past a brusque host (strange how such an important, first-impression job often goes to indifferent folks), we felt uplifted walking into the airy dining room with a red-and-white-accented decor that suggests a midcentury-modern-fueled fantasy. Photos of De Laurentiis dot the walls, of course, but not in a pushy, look-at-me way. Our server may have been a little green — a superfluous place setting wasn’t cleared away; used plates and silverware remained throughout the meal — but made up for it in charm and pacing. We mulled over dinner choices while sipping on high-octane cocktails (a bar that serves such a muscular martini and old-fashioned commands respect), nibbling on nicely chewy focaccia and extra crispy flatbread. An arugula salad, one of the items marked on the menu with a “G” for you-know-who (others get a “B” for “Baltimore specialty”), made a virtue of simplicity. The very fresh greens popped on the plate with the help of shaved cheese, bits of pancetta and candied lemon, and a subtle balsamic dressing. (You might want to add fresh ground pepper, if only to see a staffer lug over a pepper mill the size of the Washington Monument.) It’s de rigueur to work crab into just about any menu in Maryland, which GDL Italian does in stylish fashion. Jumbo lump crab is breadcrumb-coated and fried like a rice ball, accompanied by Old Bay-seasoned aioli. Even more fun is a trio of meatballs.

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